Message:
Subject: Pentium D Processor 67 Celcius!!
By: Alvin (IP: 155.69.5.*)
Written on: 12-03-2006 14:36

I just bought a new motherboard with Pentium D processor (2.66Ghz). I found out that my CPU temp is at 67 Celcius from BIOS. I'm just wondering whether it's too high? Anyone can answer me? Preferably those who are using Dual core as well..

Replies:
By: typodaemon (IP: 71.14.133.*)
Written on: 15-03-2006 23:21

http://www.heatsink-guide.com/content.php?content=control.shtml

Low end Pentium D's are rated for a lower temperature than that, on their cover. So while the temperature sensor is reading an internal temperature and you might be within specs, I would try to lower it.
By: Brad V (IP: 128.186.12.*)
Written on: 15-03-2006 23:55

There is something wrong with your cooling setup. 67C is higher than normal. Understand that the bios does put a bit of strain on the processor and so you will usually see higher temps there than you would is the CPU was idle.
You may consider changing the stock heatsink to an aftermarket one. Also, you may try reattatching the heatsink with new thermal paste.
Also, what's your case air flow look like?
By: Tillmann (IP: 146.140.7.*)
Written on: 16-03-2006 11:43

Hi,

this question is covered in the FAQ. Please read the FAQ before posting.

As described there, I suggest that you try to improve case cooling. Your CPU temperature is too high, but if you are using the stock cooler that came with your CPU, it will be adequate for the CPU - IF the case is properly ventilated.

bye,
Tillmann
By: Ray (IP: 195.92.168.*)
Written on: 14-05-2006 00:16

One thing you might want to check with Socket T / LGA775 heatsinks is that all four plastic motherboard fixing posts are properly seated into the motherboard. Sounds easy but ...

I have found that these posts are very badly designed - it's possible to think that all four are OK when in fact one or two posts are not 100% seated. The ONLY way to tell for sure is to remove the motherboard (with heatsink still attached) and carefully check that;-

a) the sharp end of the white plastic post is pushed fully through to the underside of the motherboard - it shoudn't move or rock if you press in from underneath.
b) again from the underside of the motherboard, the black pin of all four plastic posts is pushed the same distance into the white plastic post - I have found that a properly seated post has the black pin end about 1mm depth from the end of the white plastic post, maybe less. Check all four and compare with each other.
c) again from the underside of the motherboard, make sure that the end of the white plastic post has not been deformed in any way - this can prevent proper insertion of the black plastic post

From the top of the motherboard, two things need to be checked;-

1) the top of the white post should mate with the appropriate shoulder inside the black plastic post
2) the black plastic post has an anti-clockwise arrow on it - this should be positioned in such a way that it is impossible to turn it clockwise. (Turning it anti-clockwise is only ever required for removal of the heatsink, so if it's been played about with you'll need to re-seat that post - I recommend removing the motherboard to do this, then rest it on a firm, cushioned, ant-static surface since fixing these posts requires lots of pressure and you wouldn't want to damage the motherboard by doing it "in situ".

I hope I've described all this clearly & accurately, pics would be a better way to describe and if you want - I have plenty, just ask.

HTH, Ray
By: DunkingBird (IP: 203.126.26.*)
Written on: 18-05-2006 02:52

I am facing the same problem as the threadstarter. My case is already very well ventilated and my room is airconditioned. My Pentium 805 is still reading at a high of 66~68 degC at idle. The air emitted by the exhaust fans are only slightly warmer than the surrounding air and I made sure there is no shortcircuit of air flow inside my casing. It is currently not overclocked but the temperature will rise (at idle) a further 1-2 degC if I overclock it at 10% higher speed. Haven't installed any games to push the CPU yet.

I would probably like to remove the stock heatsink and check if the contacts are not perfect.

Ray, would appreciate if you forward me the photos as a guide while I disassemble the heatsink. Thank you in advance.

Alvin, would be good if you keep us updated on how you solved your temperature problem.

email: scrubx@hotmail.com
By: Ray (IP: 195.92.168.*)
Written on: 18-05-2006 14:23

Sorry for the delay - I'd forgotten my promise!

Here are the pics,
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/Ray_GTI-R/PC/Dscn2413a.jpg
This one is of the upper part of the fastener and I've highlighted the main areas that neet to be snug (no gaps).

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/Ray_GTI-R/PC/Dscn2412a.jpg
This pic shows the bottom of the fastener to illustrate how it should appear from under the motherboard.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/Ray_GTI-R/PC/Dscn2414a.jpg
This shows the general orientation of the fasteners prior to, during AND after the install. If the fasteners aren't in this position then they are probably loose or broken.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/Ray_GTI-R/PC/Dscn2415a.jpg
This shows the moulded arrrow on the top of the fastener and the correct orientation the fasteners prior to, during AND after the install.

NOTE - you should only ever twist the fastener in the direction of the moulded arrow if you are DISASSEMBLING the heatsink.

HTH, Ray
By: DunkingBird (IP: 203.126.26.*)
Written on: 19-05-2006 03:16

Alvin,

Thanks for the photos.

By: Ray (IP: 195.92.168.*)
Written on: 19-05-2006 13:03

DunkingBird

Did you get pics from Alvin in addition to the ones I posted?

If so, can we share?

Cheers, Ray
By: DunkingBird (IP: 203.126.26.*)
Written on: 22-05-2006 10:06

Oops...silly me. I meant to thank you, Ray, for the photos you posted.
By: DunkingBird (IP: 203.126.26.*)
Written on: 29-05-2006 06:52

I have since replaced the thermal pad on my stock D805 heat sink with Artic Silver 5. The reinstallation of the heat sink fortunately was not as difficult as I had anticipated. It clicked onto position with just moderate force. As mentioned by Ray and others, it is important to align the the clip correctly before pushing onto the motherboard. Any slight off in its position, the legs will not lock click.

The temperature dropped about 4 degC to about 65 degC at full loading (two Toast.exe running). The throttlewatch program shows that the CPU is not being throttled.

The temperature has now crept up to the levels before the change because all my casing fans are now powered by 7 volts instead of 12 volts to reduce the fan noise.

If I can bear with the noise from the Intel CPU fan, setting at maximum speed (+3500 rpm) can usually bring my CPU temperature below 59 degC at full load. Now I normally set at Optimum CPU fan speed setting and live with a typical temperature of about 65 degC at full load. If the throttlewatch program is correct, the CPU is not forced to throttle down even at this temperature therefore I am ok with this for the time being until I buy myself a more efficient but very quiet casing fan later.

If there is one big lesson I learnt from my recent DIY...don't attempt to save on cost by buying a cheap casing if noise is an important criteria. My casing cost me only 4.5% of my entire DIY system which excluded the LCD monitor/printer/accessories. I now ended up having to spend more to replace all my casing fan with quieter ones. It is simply not worth the savings.
By: DunkingBird (IP: 203.126.26.*)
Written on: 29-05-2006 06:59

One more thing...if you are using Asus P5LD2-SE motherboard, update your BIOS. The original BIOS could not adjust the CPU fan speed according to the detected temperature most of the time at both Optimum or Performance setting.
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